Queen Charlotte Track (Ship Cove - Endeavour Inlet)
Team: Mark, Me
Yes, this is the first post I have written here in a -VERY- long time and I am sorry! To be brutally honest, I've only done two tramps since January, what with going to Europe for six weeks and then coming home pregnant.
I decided I wanted to do something a little different for our 2nd wedding anniversary, and given the hellish time we had been having in the preceeding weeks, Mark took very little convincing, since it was something I was (for once) enthusiastic about.
Roll on Friday night and a ferry sailing for the first time since January. It was reasonably calm and quite quiet. The only bad thing was I went to get dinner too early and wound up with less options, but at least I found something to eat! The ferry ran a little late, and by the time we had collected our bags and walked to the Mercure (oddly actually about the cheapest place in town that offered private rooms), their front door was locked as reception was closed. Thankfully the staff hadn't left yet, so they let us in and got us checked in.
Saturday morning, and unusually for a tramping trip, we dressed in "normal" clothes so we could head down to the hotel restaurant for breakfast. It was ok, but we were both left wishing there was something more akin to a McDonalds in town to get a second breakfast at. We headed back up to our room to get changed and finish packing before checking out and walking the two minutes to our water taxi.
A bit over an hour later, after a water taxi ride that more accurately impersonated an extended rollercoaster, we are delivered to Ship Cove in damp, breezy conditions. Leaving our overnight gear on the boat to be delivered to the nights accommodation seems almost sinful, but so good at the same time. We figure there is no point in rushing out of Ship Cove, so take our time using the toilets and making sure my pack is well adjusted before starting the grunt up the hill.
Once we got to the top of that first climb (Lookout Point), things got markedly easier. Apart from moving very slowly down some wet clay-based steep bits, we made really good time all the way to Tawa Saddle, including having stopped for lunch. We were in and out of raincoats all day till Tawa Saddle when it started really raining, and turned southerly with a vengeance.
Cnoc Na Lear guesthouse was further along Endeavour Inlet than we had expected, and so getting to it seemed to take a *really* long time, especially since I had started to get sore / tired hips coming down from the saddle. But we made it, our hosts were wonderfully welcoming and the room was immaculately presented. I threw myself straight in a nice warm shower before getting dressed again and lying down on the bed for a nap. We had opted to have dinner provided, and it was lovely - both the food, and because it meant we didn't have to cook (but there were 4 hotplates, a toaster, jug and microwave in the room, so you could cook if you wanted). The owners cat came to visit several times, and earned the nickname "unimpressed cat" when we put it back outside, as it sat there staring at us for a while.
After an evening wander down to the wharf, we had an early night. It was amazing how dark it was. I guess thats what happens when there are no street lights. I know its something I'm used to from tramping, but it was so surreal to experience when staying in a hotel-like setting!
In the morning, we had a relaxed breakfast, paid our hosts, packed up and went for a cruisy wander around to Furneaux Lodge for a drink before our scheduled pick-up. We had planned originally to walk around to Punga Cove, but the afternoon pick-up risked us missing our ferry home, so we settled for a morning pick-up instead, deciding to see if we could get on an earlier ferry.
The walk was just what I needed to ease the muscles from the day before, and it was lovely walking in the sunshine with close to no breeze. Sitting on the deck of the restaurant at Furneaux with a nice glass of OJ was a treat too. Once back at the guest house, we changed back into town clothes, and our wonderful host put our packs on his 4x4 to take down to the wharf for us. Our water taxi was a little late, but at least conditions were smooth this time!
We made it to Picton with just enough time to ring the Bluebridge and ask whether we were likely to be able to get on to their earlier ferry. Thankfully we could, and even better, the shuttle over to it was due to arrive at the water taxi berth within about 5 minutes. Just on an hour later, we were on the ferry, heading home (and I have vowed to do everything I can to avoid the Santa Regina in the future. The vibrations, for over 3 hours! I wound up having to put my head on Marks knee and sleep to fend of the migraine-strength headache that was trying to arrive).
So, final thoughts on "glam tramping"? I love it. Seriously. And I think Mark quite enjoyed carrying a lot less stuff than normal too. Now to find some money and persuade him that the Milford Track as a guided walk IS a good idea. I'm working on that one for about our 5th wedding anniversary, when perhaps our new adventurer is old enough to stay with its grandparents for a week.
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